When aiming at a moving enemy with a projectile hero, you have to lead your shot. the strong aim assist catches it and stops it, and the small window means that it ends up stopping directly on the enemy. The main reason I use this setting is so that when I move my crosshair on to an enemy. Here are the various reasons why I use high aim assist coupled with a small aim assist window: This is just a very tiny bit bigger than the enemy character model. It's good to have settings that feel right.Īim Assist Strength: For my aim assist strength I use 100, this may seem high but I go in depth as to why this is a good idea in my segment about Aim Assist Window Size below.Īim Assist Window: For my window, I use the small size of 10. I can not endorse this video enough and the creator is very smart and makes very informative content.ĭual Zone: I use dual zone because when I started, it felt the most comfortable and natural to use. I will like an amazing video at the bottom of the post that is great for finding the right sens. where you are accurate and work your way up. So, therefore, you should start at a low sens. This comes at the cost of slower reaction and turning around. Lower sensitivity is more accurate (like why you draw slower when drawing in details), this is because errors are kept minimal. I started with a lower sens., and have worked my way up as I got more comfortable. I went from overwatch being my first FPS with terrible aim to having top 1% in both unscoped and scoped accuracy with Ana and high percentiles in hero accuracy with many different heroes and aim types (such as projectile, hitscan, and tracking).Įnough bragging and on to my aim settings: Using this idea in my settings listed below and lots of practice have helped insanely with my aim. I especially recommend the aiming exercises video. They help build upon the ideas I talk about in this post. If you don't want to read massive walls of text, I recommend watching the videos at the bottom. Direct Translation means that any movement whatsoever enacted on the analog stick is exactly and equally represented on the screen at all times. It mostly comes down to the core idea of what I call direct translation. Thanks for taking the time to do this everyone.Hey guys! I Have spent a lot of time playing overwatch (recently hit diamond, preparing a long post of tips) and messing with my aim settings and have found a set of settings that works very well for me and could work very well for lots of players. Upon completing the 7th iteration, your perfect sensitivity and eDPI will be displayed! Congratulations! Repeat steps 3-6 until you have completed the 7th iteration. Now the next iteration will have the values updated automatically. Select either 'Lower' or 'Higher' in the Preference column next to iteration 1. Which one felt better, easier, smoother, less shaky and more accurate to you? Now change your sensitivity to the highest value indicated next to the first test. If you can also test some small height changes, that is great too as it will improve your consistency. Make sure to test close to the target and further away from the target. The movement should feel smooth and stay on the target as much as possible. Practice tracing a mark on a wall, a head, a small target, or other in game element with your mouse while moving around. If that happens, just toggle one of the preferences and all of the fields should update! If you are still having problems, trying deleting your cache.Įnter your starting sensitivity and starting DPI.Ĭhange your in-game sensitivity to the lowest value indicated next to the first iteration. NOTE: If you enter your preferences and then adjust your starting sensitivity or starting DPI, your perfect sensitivity will not update. There are also some important settings you should know about so make sure to watch the video to ensure you get the most perfect sensitivity possible! The following instructions are demonstrated in the video linked at the top of this sheet.
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